Al Fresco's Mexican

Address: 23L Hai Ba Trung St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/826-7782
Cuisine: Mexican
Price:Main courses $5-$12

Frommer's Review:
Run by Australian expats, Al Fresco's two floors of friendly, casual dining is sort of like a T.G.I. Friday's reincarnated in Vietnam. With checkered tablecloths, good oldies music, and a great view from the second floor to the street below, this is the place to bring the kids (or yourself) when they're in need of a slice of home. The place serves very good Tex-Mex, pizza, chicken wings, and the like. The ribs are a house specialty. There are excellent imported and local steaks, and the burgers are the real deal, with all the fixings. Desserts are good standbys like brownies a la mode. The wine list is heavy on Australian and inexpensive South American reds. If you've had enough of fried rice or noodle soup, come here for something to stick to your ribs and have a chat with the friendly owner. The second floor was recently expanded and a new area was added under the awning at the back.

Au Lac Garden Cafe and Bar Cafe

Address: 57 Ly Thai To
Location: Just behind the Metropole Hotel to the east
Phone: 04/825-7807
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review:
Cozy courtyard seating and a relaxed intimate interior are the hallmarks of this popular little bar and cafe. With good coffee and a host of local and international entrees, the place is full of expats on lunch break, and hopping at happy hour. All quite familiar.

Brother's Café Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 26 Nguyen Thai Hoc
Phone: 04/733-3866
Web Site: www.brothercafe.com
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Buffets 90,000 VND ($6) lunch, 178,000 VND ($12) dinner

Frommer's Review
Buffet only, Brother's is an inexpensive starting point to explore gourmet Vietnamese cuisine. Lunch includes dishes such as salted chicken, sweet-and-sour bean sprouts, shrimp, noodles, and spring rolls; a full dessert table of sweet tofu, sweet baby rice, dragon fruit, and other exotic offerings; and fresh lemon or melon juice. Dinner features grilled items -- shrimp, fish, lamb, and pork -- and a glass of wine. There are faux street stalls encircling the garden with Vietnamese favorites like pho (noodle soup) and bun cha (cold rice noodles, spring rolls, and lettuce eaten by dipping into a slightly sweet sauce with meat). Don't expect anyone to explain anything; the staff here does little more than schlep drinks and smilingly point to the buffet, but it's about the food, really, and a meal here is not without nice details like pressed linen napkins and tiny fresh flowers. Sit in the courtyard (under canvas umbrellas) or in the casual corners of this lushly restored colonial. The word is out, though, so especially at lunch, it's not uncommon to see tour buses pulled up in front. Get here early or get ready for an old-time smorgasbord push and shove.

Ciao Café Cafe

Address: 02 Hang Bai St
Phone: 04/934-1494
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
An outlet of this popular Saigon chain, Ciao Café is a cool two-story place just south of the lake, with cozy booths and a funky, Are Deco style all its own. It attracts mostly locals, making it a fun hangout and people-watching perch.

Club Opera Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 59 Ly Thai To St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/824-6950
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses $4-$6.50

Frommer's Review
Just next to the Press Club and across from the Sofitel Metropole, this exclusive little bistro, like its sister, the Emperor, serves delicious Vietnamese food that's a bit dolled-up for the foreign palate -- and priced to the foreign wallet. They have all kinds of Vietnamese fare, from Hue specials like crispy fried spring rolls to delicate, smaller versions of banh khoi (fried doughy pancakes filled with vegetables, herbs, and shrimp). You'll also find stir-fries and hot-pot specials, as well as grilled chicken in lemon grass, tiger prawns cooked in tamarind sauce, and rich fried squid. The atmosphere is a retro French villa with lots of cozy romantic nooks and candlelight. Where the Emperor is the town's catwalk, Club Opera is a place for a mellow first date. Service is professional.

The Deli Cafe

Address: 59A Ly Thai To St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/934-0888
Web Site: www.hanoi-pressclub.com
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
Located on the first floor of the Press Club, The Deli -- along with its adjacent coffee corner, Le Comptoire -- is a good place to grab a local or international paper (or browse a good book section) and enjoy a relaxed lunch of sandwiches and gourmet pizzas, not to mention the Aussie pie with chips or "Mom's Meatloaf." The grilled Reuben sandwich is without rival. Wireless Internet service is available free of charge, so bring your laptop and get connected.

Emperor Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 18b Le Thanh Tong Str
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/826-8801; 04/824-0027
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses $4.75-$29

Frommer's Review
For atmosphere and decor alone, the Emperor is Hanoi's address of note. A beautiful restored colonial that stands sentinel at the busy street-side entrance is the fine-dining area, posh and elegant. But this elegance, a bit stiff really, gives way to an interior courtyard and a laid-back, classy, open-air dining spot -- a little inner-city oasis. With the torches and candlelight, hushed mumbles of conversations, and gliding staff in traditional ao-dai dresses, you might think you've entered a time warp. Basic dishes fit any budget, but specialty items like the ubiquitous bird's nest or shark-fin soup will run up the bill. This is Vietnamese fine dining at its best, a tourist and expat favorite. I enjoyed the steamed garuppa in a subtle "slightly dark" sauce after an appetizer of crabmeat and asparagus soup. Service is snappy, and even though Emperor is attracting more groups, which can be a sign that a restaurant is about to fall into mediocrity and soon obscurity, the place is still running like a top-notch international restaurant. Everything is excellent. Try the soft-shell crab, spicy grilled squid, or any seafood special. Whether sampling light fare in the bar area or enjoying a spread in the main dining room, Emperor is affordable elegance and the benchmark for comparison.

Fanny's Ice Cream Cafe

Address: 48 Le Thai To
Location: On the western edge of Hoan Kiem Lake
Phone: 04/828-5689
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
One of the main attractions around Hoan Kiem Lake (for me) is Fanny's Ice Cream on the west side of the lake. They serve exquisite gelato-style ice cream.

Garden Restaurant Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 36 Hang Manh
Location: West of the lake and just north of Hang Gai
Phone: 04/824-3402
Web Site: www.hanoigarden.com
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses 20,000 VND-60,000 VND ($1.35-$4)

Frommer's Review
The Garden Restaurant is a low-luxe, authentic Vietnamese restaurant that attracts a few tourists (and small tour groups) in the know. With cool courtyard seating and cozy inside dining, this is a good place to try real Hanoi cuisine -- stir-fries and roast dishes, as well as curries and specialties like whole fried river fish or "drunken shrimp," a dish of live prawns cooked in flaming rice whiskey and put under a cover to simmer (they flip and flop like crazy, and when they stop moving you know the dish is done). I shared a large river fish done with ginger and lemon -- the meat fell right off the bone -- as well as fresh morning glory lightly sautéed in oyster sauce -- a dish that is often soggy and pre-prepared, but here was crisp and fresh. Bring friends and settle in for a long repast. The young waitstaff is eager to practice their English and aim to please. Ask for a suggestion and you might find something new. They have set menus for $6 that include soup, spring rolls or another appetizer, and two small entrees with either rice or vermicelli noodles.

The Green Tangerine French

Address: 48 Hang Be
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/825-1286
Cuisine: French
Price: Main courses $7.70-$15

Frommer's Review
In a lovingly restored 1928 colonial in the center of the Old Quarter, the Green Tangerine offers a menu of rich, delicious French fare. The small courtyard area is great for an afternoon drink just a few steps off of busy Hang Be, and the air-conditioned dining room is a sanctuary for a luxurious meal. It's very popular with expats, and that makes for a constantly evolving menu to keep up with the many repeat customers. I started with a delicious mille-feuille of scallops cooked in white wine and garnished with Parmesan and eggplant. For my main course, I tried savory lasagna made of wide noodles stuffed with a pâté of crab and broccoli cooked in cognac and layered with spicy mashed carrot: very original. The rack of lamb served in coffee is unique and the set menus are popular.

Highland's Coffee Cafe

Location: Hoan Kiem Terrace, 6th floor
Phone: 04/928-7369
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
Highland's is the local version of Starbucks -- a popular place to beat the heat and have a good, strong cup of coffee. The best location is lakeside on the sixth floor of the massive wedge-shaped building that overlooks a busy traffic circle and the north end of the lake (Hoan Kiem Terrace, sixth floor; tel. 04/928-7369). Red couches are set up in intimate arrangements on platforms overlooking the busy anthill below: a good meeting point. Also try the other Highland's in a cool shaded area with outdoor tables around a small kiosk (on the eastern side of Hoan Kiem Lake; 38-40 Le Thai To St.; tel. 04/828/7043). At both, enjoy any kind of espresso or cappuccino, Italian sodas, snacks, sandwiches, pizzas, and good breakfasts.

Hoa Sua Training Restaurant Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 28 Ha Hoi St
Phone: 04/942-4448
Web Site: www.hoasuaschool.com
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses 16,000 VND-110,000 VND ($1-$7)

Frommer's Review
Do a good deed, enjoy a great feed. You'll find lots of good French and Vietnamese dishes at this popular cafe in the south end of town. Started in 1995, Hoa Sua is also an NGO and training school for disadvantaged youth, and it now boasts over 1,700 graduates who have gone on to all kinds of careers. Because working at the restaurant is like a final exam for these students, the young staff is as friendly as they come and every detail is well attended to. The food is great, the atmosphere in the courtyard or on one of the patios in this sprawling faux colonial is very laid-back, and the price is right. Lunch and dinner specials are written on a chalkboard, and everything -- from good steak and chips to sandwiches to Vietnamese curry specials or fried seafood -- is delicious. The restaurant also runs a number of other ventures in town, including a cafe Baguette and Chocolat (11 Cha Ca St.; tel. 04/923-1500; www.hoasuaschool.com), a bakery Croissant (35 Quang Trung St.; tel. 04/943-6707), and a small sewing and embroidery shop at 63a Trang Thi St. (tel. 04/934-2792), not to mention their popular cafe in Sapa of the same name, Baguette and Chocolat . Best of all, the profits go to good use, providing scholarships for students and upgrading the school's service standard.

Indochine Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 16 Nam Ngu St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/942-4097
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses $2-$6.50

Frommer's Review
Set in a striking restored colonial, this place is a longtime tourist favorite with good Vietnamese cuisine tempered for foreign palates. Indochine fills with tour groups at lunchtime, which can be a bit much, bringing a rise in the noise level and a drop in service quality. The spring rolls are great, as are both the banana flower salad and the crispy fried prawn cakes with ginger. Ask about daily specials. With indoor and patio seating and traditional Vietnamese performances in the evening (call ahead for times), Indochine is well worth a visit for the beautiful setting alone. Take a cab -- it's hard to find.

Jacc's International

Address: 49 Hai Ba Trung
Location: 4th floor Hanoi Tower
Phone: 04/934-8325
Cuisine: International
Price: Main courses $4-$15

Frommer's Review
Originator of many of Hanoi's popular restaurants (the good pizza at Pepperoni's and the familiar Western grub at Al Fredo's), Jacc's friendly Australian proprietor has hung his hat at this popular expat restaurant. Set on the fourth floor of Hanoi Towers, a popular executive service building and apartment block, Jacc's is a busy bar -- elbow to elbow during post-work happy hours -- and the menu features great imported steaks, fry-ups, pizzas, and some good local offerings. The glass-and-steel open area of the restaurant overlooks the nearby pool. In the evening, it's popular for dinner, drinks, and negotiations between international partners, and in the morning, it's the spot for a good fry-up breakfast.

Khazanna Indian

Address: 41B Ly Thai To St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/824-1166
Cuisine: Indian
Price: Main courses 39,000 VND-79,000 VND ($3-$5)

Frommer's Review
This restaurant changes names and owners every 2 years, but the current incarnation, not unlike the last, serves a fine menu of good north Indian dishes. You'll find tidy Indian-themed Western decor here with excellent service and presentation: The curries are served in small metal crocks with brass ladles. The affordable lunch menu brings in crowds of businesspeople. In the evening choose from an extensive menu of curries, grilled dishes, and good nan breads.

KOTO Cafe

Address: 61 Van Mieu St
Location: Dong Da District
Phone: 04/747-0337
Web Site: www.streetvoices.com.au
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
Why not put your ice-cream money to work for a good cause? KOTO is an acronym for "Know One Teach One" and, like Hoa Sua, the cafe is just one arm of a grass-roots humanitarian program to train Hanoi kids in the service industry. Graduates from KOTO move on to prestigious jobs in Vietnam's growing tourism industry. Australian expats run the program and teach English, comportment, food preparation, and service skills at their cozy little storefront. Just around the corner from the Temple of Literature in Dong Da District, KOTO is the best choice for refreshment when touring the sight. Pop in for good soups and sandwiches, as well as a host of sweet treats and good coffee. Young staff members are happy to see you and the service is very professional, mainly because this is the "big show" for these young would-be waiters, waitresses, and kitchen staff. Take time to chat, and be sure to read about their impending move to a new sight. Donations are accepted.

La Brique Cafe

Address: 6 Nha Tho
Phone: 04/928-5638
Cuisine: Cafe
Price: Main courses 17,000 VND-70,000 VND ($1-$4.65)

Frommer's Review
Sandwiches, pasta, and good seafood -- all with a French flare -- are served in this laid-back cafe with high brick walls surrounding rattan chairs and couches. Get out of the day's heat and enjoy a cool repast here. You'll get a good view of daily life at Hanoi's hippest little enclave of shops and cafes near the church.

Le Café des Arts de Hanoi Continental

Address: 11b Ngo Bao Khanh
Location: Hoan Kiem District (in the Old Quarter)
Phone: 04/828-7207
Cuisine: Continental
Price: Main courses $6-$12

Frommer's Review
After strolling around Hoan Kiem Lake, stop off at its northwest end for a drink or a bite at this friendly bistro-style eatery, run by French expats and open all day. Spacious, with tiled floors and shuttered windows looking into the narrow Old Quarter street below, the cafe has casual rattan furniture and a long, inviting bar, and it doubles as an art gallery, which explains the interesting paintings hanging throughout. The Vietnamese art crowd also provides some attractive local color. Most inviting, however, is the excellent food. Ask for the special of the day, and stick to bistro standbys like the omelets or a croque madame -- toasted bread and cheese sautéed in egg -- and house specialty salade bressare (fresh chicken and vegetables in a light mayonnaise sauce). There is also good house wine by the glass and excellent lunch set specials.

Le Petite Bruxelles Continental

Address: 58B Tran Quoc Toan
Phone: 04/942-5958
Web Site: www.le-petit-bruxelles.com
Cuisine: Continental
Price: Main courses 30,000 VND-185,000 VND ($2-$12)

Frommer's Review
"Little Brussels" is just that, a home away from home for Belgian and French expats. The open-air restaurant's two stories are just off of Ba Trieu in the south end of town, and the building is tucked back away from the main street to slightly deaden the many beep-beeps. The menu offers good cold starters like fresh tomato with imported mozzarella and niçoise salad. The steak and chips with fries, chicken with mushrooms in cream sauce, and steak tartare top the long list of choices (and the effusive owner is always happy to spin up something special for you). Dessert is real French glaces, crème caramel, or fresh fruit. The downstairs open patio area with a bar is a great spot for a drink or a coffee and chat, and at night, with candlelight, the place is romantic. It's reminiscent of something like, well, a little street-side cafe in the heart of Brussels. The good hearty Belgian beer flows freely (but not cheaply), and special fondues are available for groups and parties.

Little Hanoi Cafe

Address: 14 Ha Hien
Phone: 04/926-2129
Cuisine: Cafe
Price: Main courses 20,000 VND-35,000 VND ($1.35-$2.35)

Frommer's Review
Good affordable traditional Vietnamese fare is served from this long-popular shop down a small alley in the north end of the Old Quarter. Around the corner are lots of street stalls serving bia hoi, a locally brewed lager beer that costs just pennies a glass.

Luna d'Autuno Italian

Address: 11B Din Bien Phu
Phone: 08/237-338
Cuisine: Italian
Price: Main courses $4.60-$11

Frommer's Review
It's all about pizza here, and it's good stuff, popular with Hanoi expats and families. In a laid-back little courtyard, connected to a popular wine bar out front, Luna d' Autuno is just the ticket for a casual meal and beers after work, a treat for the kids, or a casual night out. The portions are big, and all ingredients are good and fresh. The wood-fired, thin-crust pizza (you can specify how crunchy) lets the ingredients do the talking. You'll find no pretensions here, and the atmosphere is very casual. The staff is welcoming, and the international language of pizza overrides any language barriers. Don't miss the cool Luna Lounge, a wine bar on the second floor.

Mediterraneo Italian

Address: 23 Nha Tho St
Location: Hoan Kiem (near the Old Church)
Phone: 04/826-6288
Cuisine: Italian
Price: Main courses $3.30-$8.30

Frommer's Review
For great coffee and desserts or to just sit, rest, and watch the world go by along busy Nha Tho Street, stop in at Moca Café, one of the city's popular traveler hangouts. This area is growing its own little bohemian community of artists and expatriate English teachers (many of whom use the cafe to give private lessons), and businesses are sprouting up all along Nha Tho, the street that extends from St. Christopher's Church. Moca is the most popular central meeting place.

Paris Deli Cafe

Address: 13 Nha Tho St
Phone: 04/928-6697
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
Just across from the Moca on Hanoi's tranquil and chic little "Church Street," you'll find this well-liked air-conditioned storefront that serves good pastry, breads, and deli sandwiches, plus all the coffee and cool fruit drinks you'll need to wash it down. This is a good place to beat the heat and take a rest from shopping or walking the city center.

Pepperoni's Cafe

Address: 29 Ly Quoc Su
Phone: 04/928-5246
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
Pepperoni's serves tasty and delicious comfort food in the popular Bao Khanh Street area (across from Café des Arts in and among many popular nightlife spots). There's a salad bar, but because the place is open air, stuff flies all over it. Stick to the pizza and good pasta.

Press Club Continental

Address: 59A Ly Thai To St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/934-0888
Web Site: www.hanoi-pressclub.com
Cuisine: Continental
Price: Main courses $12-$40

Frommer's Review
Don't be fooled by the elite address and elegant atmosphere: The Press Club is the kind of place that impresses, but it's far more affordable and accessible than its reputation and stylish dining room might indicate. The old-boys' network still digs it, but the Press Club is also attracting a younger, hipper crowd. The indoor restaurant is sizable yet private, done in dark tones of maroon and forest green with solid wood furniture and detailing. Outdoor seating is available on the terrace facing a large stage that features regular live music acts. The service is impeccable. The menu is full of sumptuous Continental standards: antipasto starters, goat-cheese salad, tuna steak, smoked trout and baked grouper, and various wood-grilled imported steaks and meat dishes. Savory entrees include the filet of barramundi with clam crust Creole sauce and rice croquette, a mouthwatering rack of lamb sprinkled with thyme and served with gnocchi, roasted salmon specials, filet of beef as you like it, and imported spatchcock served with sweet potatoes in a Dauphinoise and citrus sauce. The very creative kitchen has something for everyone. For dessert, try the white-chocolate sticky rice or rich rice pudding. The second and third floors house event facilities and meeting rooms. On the ground floor, there's a casual and cozy coffee corner called The Deli. Long a popular expat hangout, the Press Club bar is busy at happy hour, and their special events are always well attended. The Press Club serves a fine, affordable lunch buffet, and for steak there's no rival. Wireless Internet service is available throughout the building.

Restaurant 69 Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 69 Ma May St
Location: Hoan Kiem
Phone: 04/926-1720
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses 20,000 VND-60,000 VND ($1.35-$4)

Frommer's Review
The number is just the address on busy little Ma May Street, right in the heart of the Old Quarter tourist area. Set in an old converted traditional shop house, Restaurant 69 is worth it if only for the atmosphere. Go for a table on the second-floor balcony if you can. There's a novella of a menu with lots of local specials, anything from pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) and bun bo Hue (a dish of rice vermicelli and beef popular in the town of Hue in central Vietnam) to good stir-fries and seafood hot pots. The clay-pot dishes are popular, too. Soups, salads, and sandwiches pretty much cover all the bases, and the friendly staff makes this a welcome place to beat the heat (or get warm) and have a snack while touring the Old Quarter.

Restaurant Bobby Chinn Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 1 Ba Trieu St
Location: Hoan Keim District
Phone: 04/934-8577
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses 105,000 VND-180,000 VND ($7-$12); tapas menu from 30,000 VND ($2)

New York Times Review
Looking out over Hoan Kiem Lake, Bobby Chinn serves up a mixture of California and Asian cuisine. Signature dishes include green tea smoked duck, roasted squab wrapped in crispy almond-scented rice paper and sticky rice dumplings with mung bean purée. But diners also come here for the scene, which mostly takes place in the back room, where silk drapes are used to intimately partition off tables.

Seasons of Hanoi Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 95B Quan Thanh
Phone: 04/843-5444
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses 40,000 VND-80,000 VND ($2.65-$5.35)

Frommer's Review
The atmosphere is picture-perfect: intimate, candlelit, romantic, earth-colored surroundings in a casual yet beautifully restored colonial with authentic native furniture. Sit on the first floor to avoid the tour groups on the second. The spring rolls are heaven, as are the tempura soft-shell crabs. They serve great fish as you like it -- fried, boiled, on kabobs, and in hot pots. Try the sautéed eel with chili and lemon grass or fried chicken in panda leaves. Presentation is elegant and the wine list, long.
 

Tamarind Café Vegetarian

Address: 80 Ma May St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/926-0580
Cuisine: Vegetarian
Price: Main courses $2-$5

Frommer's Review
Tamarind is a laid-back, friendly spot, and, even if you're not a vegetarian, this welcoming cafe's inventive menu will tickle your fancy. Soups like vegetarian wonton and two-color soup (spinach and sweet potato) take the chill off Hanoi winter nights and go great with the selection of sandwiches. Other inventive options here include "Ratatofu," ratatouille over tofu, and an all-day breakfast served with delicious homemade fruit condiments. Fruit shakes and excellent teas round out the meal, and, with a bottomless cup of coffee for just $1, it's a great place to take a break from the hectic traffic of the Old Quarter and relax. They have street-side tables in front and funky, raised-floor seating in the back. This is a good place to meet other travelers and pick up advice. There is a "no shoes, no smoking area" at the back where lots of young people hang out. The cafe is full early in the morning when large groups of travelers setting out with Handspan Travel meet here for breakfast before their trips. Handspan is one of the most popular adventure-tour operators in Hanoi, and Tamarind is home to their main office.

Tandoor Indian

Address: 24 Hang Be St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/824-5359
Cuisine: Indian
Price: Main courses 29,000 VND-125,000 VND ($2-$8)

Frommer's Review
Best is the small table overlooking busy Ba Be street from the second-floor balcony. Tandoor is a long-popular Indian-food enclave, popular with both young travelers looking for a bit of a curry fix after weeks on the road with nothing but rice and noodle dishes, as well as expats feeding a family (they have free delivery service and takeout). The same owners run another popular Indian joint across town called Dakshin, at 94 Hang Trong St. (just north of the church, Nha Tho; tel. 04/928-6872), which is focused on vegetarian cuisine. Try the delicious kabobs served from an authentic tandoor oven -- hence the name -- and any of the delicious curries. Daily set menus for lunch and dinner are affordable and offer a good range of dishes, hitting all the right points on your palate, from spicy to salty to sweet. Go for the prime balcony table on the second floor overlooking the busy street out front.

Thuy Ta Cafe

Address: 1 Le Thai To St
Location: Hoan Kiem District
Phone: 04/828-8148
Web Site: www.thuyta.com
Cuisine: Cafe

Frommer's Review
On the water at the northwest end of the lake, this cafe has great views and an extensive menu. The best choice is just a good ice cream or coffee, while taking in the lake's scenery. Unlike most others listed here, Thuy Ta is more popular with locals than tourists.

Vine International

Address: 1A Xuan Dieu
Location: Tay Ho District
Phone: 04/719-8001
Cuisine: International
Price: Main courses $5-$30

Frommer's Review
So, here you are in this topsy-turvy city of motorbike traffic and chaos. You might have found yourself a pretty groovy hotel, but dining has been more adventurous than luxurious, and exotic even when it was supposed to be familiar. Time to find Vine, a restaurant that is one of those special places that makes traveling in this part of the world so much fun. A good 10- to 15-minute ride north of the Old Quarter, the restaurant is on West Lake near the entrance to the Sheraton Hanoi . It caters to both discerning expats in the nearby lakeside neighborhood -- which so many embassy staff call home -- as well as visiting foodies. Set up like an upscale bistro in San Francisco -- but with Hanoi prices -- Vine has an atmosphere, presentation, and cuisine that could stand on its own anywhere. As their name suggests, the wine list is deep, and the restaurant serves as one of the town's biggest private importers of fine vintages -- the walls are literally lined with bottles -- and there is a small basement cellar where, donning a velvety tasting cloak to keep your shoulders warm, visitors can have a special evening of appetizers and wine tasting with the restaurant's effusive steward, sampling from a selection of over 1,000 labels.

Dining areas look like a chic club's interior, with ceilings draped in rich cloth like giant fans. The California/Vietnamese Gothic baroque decor is set against Zen-simple, elegant tables. And the food is spectacular, a mix of the familiar -- "I haven't had a good salad in so long," the lady at the next table tittered -- and unique fusion dishes served in a chic, casual setting. Starters include nachos, quesadillas, a delectable tuna tartare, carpaccio, and fresh Vietnamese spring rolls, as well as a fiery gazpacho soup or Thai tom yum (a spicy, sweet and sour soup with lemon grass). The Caesar salad is a classic. Homemade pastas are cooked to order (and take 20 min.), and they offer all kinds of special seafood dishes depending on what's fresh that day (much is flown in from Nha Trang). The "D'Vine Beef Burger" is a savory treat of fresh ground beef topped with imported cheese, fried egg, and pickled peppers. Their pizzas and calzones are great, as are the many authentic Thai dishes. The braised lamb shank with garlic, red pepper, and truffled mushrooms is a highlight, as is the tuna steak with horseradish potatoes, lemon, and truffle oil. Dessert is tiramisu or a rich chocolate mouse.

Wild Rice Asian/Pac Rim

Address: 6 Ngo Thi Nham St
Location: Ba Trung, Hanoi
Phone: 04/943-8896
Cuisine: Asian/Pac Rim
Price: Main courses 45,000 VND-160,000 VND ($3-$11)

Frommer's Review
Nothing about Lá Luá portends to be authentic Vietnamese; everything from the decor to the dining is in fact an amalgam of traditions and customs. The place looks like an upmarket L.A. bistro borrowing Japanese themes, with tall stands of bamboo encased in glass, slate floors, and bright white walls that shine with the mellow glow of indirect lighting. The food is good Vietnamese-influenced fare. My grilled chicken in chili with lemon grass was deliciously spicy and savory. Try the barbecued squid or beef with coconut. Presentation is Zen simple: white linen with black chopsticks, a plate, bowl, and a candle on the table. And it's as if the staff is playing a game of chess on your table, rearranging things as if they'd rather not disturb the utensil still life. It's all a bit studied really, but the food is very good.